The design development began after a period of perspective. In the process of self examination we identified that for. too long the sole focus of our lives revolved around work and the strenuous pace/demands of our industry. This had taken its toll on our mental health. In an effort to shake the constraints of chronic stress we began to prioritise our personal happiness through therapeutic self love, opening up and shedding the constraints of the status quo.
Starting with the pre-fall collection (shot on a black background) we explore new cutting methods such as bias “Loop” dresses which circle back onto themselves, referencing the stresses of a recurring emotional loop. Other areas of innovation include the off-the-shoulder “Release” pieces, here dresses and tops are developed though a precise single cut in the centre of a piece of cloth which is allowed to fall open - a concept that reminds us that to find happiness one must cut deep into the self and expose vulnerabilities. In fabrication, we continue to work with morse coded Broderie Anglaise - this season its message is a reminder that “anything can be a distraction to happiness”.
Alongside the development process for our main fall 2022 collection (shot on a white/beige background) we had our creative identities challenged. Sometimes distractions are too painful and can rip you from a place of peace, and when this happens it is vital to face adversity creatively.
We start this later half of the collection with a black turtle neck and leather trouser look, endearingly called the “Louise Jumper” in honour of Louise Wilson OBE who taught Matthew on the MA at Central Saint Martins in 2010 and dressed similarly. It was her passion for originality and creativity that pushed us to develop the skills we use today to innovate and create new ideas.
Other designs in this collection interpret the visceral emotions felt when in pain. Concepts of anxiety are interpreted through twisting cloth from one side to the other, injury is conveyed through lacerated sleeves which expose the body underneath, healing is approached through suturing seams together, and tension is dealt with by revisiting archive pieces from our past and using our ingenuity to push these ideas further.
Through this explorations of originality we record our emotional insights, the joys we explored, the pain we experienced, the methods we used to find closure and a return to a place of solace where we continue to enjoy our journey towards happiness.
Levi & Matthew